Champagne is the undisputed king of bubbly wines.
There are dozens of reasons for this: the region’s
long history of making sparkling wine - a process
involving a long aging procedure in historic underground
caves; its exclusivity for being served to France’s royal
court in the past and the world leaders of today; and the
famous chalky limestone terroir that gives the wine its
distinctive minerality and vibrancy.
The process for making Champagne is known as
Methode Champenoise or the Champagne method
within the Champagne region. In other wine producing
areas, this is typically called Methode Traditionale or the
traditional method.
This is a process where, after the first fermentation
to convert natural grape sugar to alcohol, the wine
undergoes a second fermentation process in the bottle
to produce carbon dioxide which gives the wine its
effervescence.
This is different from Prosecco which is made using
the Charmat or tank method wherein the wine gains its
sparkle in large stainless-steel tanks and is then bottled.
It is also different from Methode Ancestral which is used
to make Petillant Naturale wines. Abbreviated to Pet-Nat
by wine hipsters, these wines are kept with the spent
yeast in the bottle, while traditional method sparklers
undergo another process called disgorgement.
Disgorgement means that the bottles which have already
undergone that second fermentation are turned upside
down in a slow process called riddling. The necks are then
frozen, and the yeast expelled out before reclosing with a
caged cork to ensure a crystal-clear look to the wine.
While both the tank-method and ancestral-method
effervescent wines have their own charms for everyday
drinking, they are also great for big celebrations, holiday
festivities, and special moments that deserve the dazzle
that traditional-method sparklers bring.
Sparkling Wines
In addition to Champagne, there is a world of high-quality,
traditionally-made sparkling wines to discover that often
come with a much lower price tag.
Across France, other wine regions make their own bubbly
in the traditional method. These are called Cremant, which
are made with the local grapes of each region.
Traditional-method wines are also found bottled under
Cava in Spain, Franciacorta and Oltrepo Pavese in Italy, and
sparkling wines made throughout the New World that have
an affiliation with a Champagne house. Chandon was a
pioneer in this, creating Bodegas Chandon in Argentina in
1959.
English sparkling wine is a relative newcomer on the
bubbly scene, but it has quickly become a darling of
sommeliers. Geologically speaking, the southeast area of
the United Kingdom, where these wines are produced, has
the same soil as Champagne.
This southern strip is also warmer and drier than most of
the country. Sussex, Surrey, and Kent are the top areas for
British bubbly.
The three classic grapes of Champagne - Chardonnay,
Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier - have been heavily planted.
This region has been invested in by top Champagne
producers Taittinger and Pommery.
The best traditionally made sparkling wines in Italy are
produced in Lombardy, a small district in the northern
center of the country. There are two DOCG regions (the
regions that produce the highest quality of sparkling wines)
in Italy.
The first and better-known of the two regions is
Franciacorta, which is located between the southern shore
of Lake Iseo and the city of Brescia. Franciacorta sparkling
wines are Chardonnay based with regulations requiring an
85 percent minimum but also allowing 10 percent Pinot
Nero (Italian for Noir) and 5 percent Pinot Bianco (or Blanc)
which is a grape also permitted in the French Cremants of
Alsace and Bourgogne.
The lesser-known wine region in the area is Oltrepo Pavese
which is located 50 miles south of Milan in the province
of Pavia and specializes in Pinot Nero-based sparkling,
requiring a minimum of 70 percent, along with up to 30
percent Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, or Pinot Grigio.
Cava, which is made in Spain, is having a controversial
moment. An overproduction of lesser-quality versions by
large brands has led some producers to spurn the Cava
name including Raventos i Blanc, who was the first sparkling
wine producer in Catalonia in 1872, along with other top
producers such as Gramona, Recaredo, and Clos Lentiscus.
Some began labeling under Corpinnat and also Penedes DO.
Disparity among producers using the traditional
Champagne grapes and local grapes has led to consumer
confusion about the wines for years. While there are still
good value wines to be found under the Cava name, it will
be interesting to see how the designation reinvents itself.
While Champagne producers rightfully tout their quality
sparkling, they also invest in other wine regions around
the world. In Oregon, Bollinger recently purchased Ponzi in
Willamette Valley and Henriot bought a majority stake in
Beaux Freres.
In California, Moet & Chandon and Mumm both started
production in the 1970s. Taittinger quickly followed and
created Domaine Carneros in a joint venture in the 1980s
as did Champagne Louis Roederer with their Golden State
brand Roederer Estate.
All of these companies brought money and know-how to
northern California’s sparkling wine scene but homegrown
Schramsberg was actually the first producer of traditionalmethod
sparkling, their 1969 Blanc de Blancs had already
received recognition having been served internationally at
the 1972 “Toast to Peace” dinner in Beijing.
Out in the greater world of wine, there are many topquality
sparkling vinos to enjoy this holiday season and
beyond. Look for traditional-method made effervescent
wines to bring sparkle and dazzle to all of life’s special
moments.