Effervescent Elegance

Unveiling the Art of Crafting Champagne and Sparkling Wines

By Sandra Crittenden
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Champagne is the undisputed king of bubbly wines. There are dozens of reasons for this: the region’s long history of making sparkling wine - a process involving a long aging procedure in historic underground caves; its exclusivity for being served to France’s royal court in the past and the world leaders of today; and the famous chalky limestone terroir that gives the wine its distinctive minerality and vibrancy. 

The process for making Champagne is known as Methode Champenoise or the Champagne method within the Champagne region. In other wine producing areas, this is typically called Methode Traditionale or the traditional method. 

 This is a process where, after the first fermentation to convert natural grape sugar to alcohol, the wine undergoes a second fermentation process in the bottle to produce carbon dioxide which gives the wine its effervescence. 

 This is different from Prosecco which is made using the Charmat or tank method wherein the wine gains its sparkle in large stainless-steel tanks and is then bottled. It is also different from Methode Ancestral which is used to make Petillant Naturale wines. Abbreviated to Pet-Nat by wine hipsters, these wines are kept with the spent yeast in the bottle, while traditional method sparklers undergo another process called disgorgement. 

 Disgorgement means that the bottles which have already undergone that second fermentation are turned upside down in a slow process called riddling. The necks are then frozen, and the yeast expelled out before reclosing with a caged cork to ensure a crystal-clear look to the wine. While both the tank-method and ancestral-method effervescent wines have their own charms for everyday drinking, they are also great for big celebrations, holiday festivities, and special moments that deserve the dazzle that traditional-method sparklers bring. 

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In addition to Champagne, there is a world of high-quality, traditionally-made sparkling wines to discover that often come with a much lower price tag. 

 Across France, other wine regions make their own bubbly in the traditional method. These are called Cremant, which are made with the local grapes of each region.

 Traditional-method wines are also found bottled under Cava in Spain, Franciacorta and Oltrepo Pavese in Italy, and sparkling wines made throughout the New World that have an affiliation with a Champagne house. Chandon was a pioneer in this, creating Bodegas Chandon in Argentina in 1959. 

 English sparkling wine is a relative newcomer on the bubbly scene, but it has quickly become a darling of sommeliers. Geologically speaking, the southeast area of the United Kingdom, where these wines are produced, has the same soil as Champagne. 

 This southern strip is also warmer and drier than most of the country. Sussex, Surrey, and Kent are the top areas for British bubbly.

 The three classic grapes of Champagne - Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier - have been heavily planted. This region has been invested in by top Champagne producers Taittinger and Pommery. 

 The best traditionally made sparkling wines in Italy are produced in Lombardy, a small district in the northern center of the country. There are two DOCG regions (the regions that produce the highest quality of sparkling wines) in Italy.

 The first and better-known of the two regions is Franciacorta, which is located between the southern shore of Lake Iseo and the city of Brescia. Franciacorta sparkling wines are Chardonnay based with regulations requiring an 85 percent minimum but also allowing 10 percent Pinot Nero (Italian for Noir) and 5 percent Pinot Bianco (or Blanc) which is a grape also permitted in the French Cremants of Alsace and Bourgogne.

 The lesser-known wine region in the area is Oltrepo Pavese which is located 50 miles south of Milan in the province of Pavia and specializes in Pinot Nero-based sparkling, requiring a minimum of 70 percent, along with up to 30 percent Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, or Pinot Grigio. 

 Cava, which is made in Spain, is having a controversial moment. An overproduction of lesser-quality versions by large brands has led some producers to spurn the Cava name including Raventos i Blanc, who was the first sparkling wine producer in Catalonia in 1872, along with other top producers such as Gramona, Recaredo, and Clos Lentiscus. Some began labeling under Corpinnat and also Penedes DO. Disparity among producers using the traditional Champagne grapes and local grapes has led to consumer confusion about the wines for years. While there are still good value wines to be found under the Cava name, it will be interesting to see how the designation reinvents itself. While Champagne producers rightfully tout their quality sparkling, they also invest in other wine regions around the world. In Oregon, Bollinger recently purchased Ponzi in Willamette Valley and Henriot bought a majority stake in Beaux Freres. 

 In California, Moet & Chandon and Mumm both started production in the 1970s. Taittinger quickly followed and created Domaine Carneros in a joint venture in the 1980s as did Champagne Louis Roederer with their Golden State brand Roederer Estate. 

 All of these companies brought money and know-how to northern California’s sparkling wine scene but homegrown Schramsberg was actually the first producer of traditionalmethod sparkling, their 1969 Blanc de Blancs had already received recognition having been served internationally at the 1972 “Toast to Peace” dinner in Beijing. 

 Out in the greater world of wine, there are many topquality sparkling vinos to enjoy this holiday season and beyond. Look for traditional-method made effervescent wines to bring sparkle and dazzle to all of life’s special moments.