Make A Meal Of It

A look at island spots where meals become part of the day instead of just the destination

By Jeanie Jo Cullip
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I think one of the great luxuries of island life is realizing a meal doesn’t always need a dining room. Sometimes it belongs at a table filled with enough choices that settling on just one seems unnecessary. 

 And sometimes the food comes with us, packed into a bag or tucked into a cooler, ready to be eaten wherever the rest of the day happens to lead. 

 The food matters, of course, but so does everything happening around it. Some of my favorite meals are the ones that slip naturally into a day already in motion. 

 There was no reservation on the calendar or carefully planned itinerary. We were simply somewhere we wanted to be, and eating became the next thing we wanted to do. 

 Galveston is particularly good at this; the island gives us plenty of reasons to leave the house without necessarily knowing where the day will end. We can wander downtown, spend a few hours near the water, or head out intending to run one errand and somehow find ourselves wondering where we should eat. 

 A meal slips easily into the middle of all of it, turning an errand into an afternoon, an afternoon into dinner, and dinner into one more reason we’re not quite ready to call it a day. 

 Perhaps living here has made me appreciate the difference between planning a meal and making something of one. The first asks where we’re going to eat. The second leaves room for what might happen around it. 

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 Sometimes the setting becomes as much a part of the memory as the food itself. A sandwich tastes a little different after a morning spent wandering downtown, just as brunch somehow becomes more interesting when there’s sand beneath your feet and the Gulf in front of you. 

 Even something packed from home can become an occasion once the cooler is in the car and you have nowhere particular you need to be. 

 Maybe that’s what it means to make a meal of it. Not to make dinner more complicated or extravagant, but to let what we eat become part of something larger. Sometimes that’s all it takes. 

 Where to Make a Meal of It 

 Making a meal of it can mean something different depending on the day. Sometimes it’s less about where the food takes us and more about what happens once we sit down, especially when part of the pleasure comes from not having to decide exactly what we want before we begin. 

 I want the pasta, but the pizza looks good. I’d like to try the soup, except now I’ve spotted something else, and we haven’t even discussed dessert. At Mario’s Ristorante on 61st Street, I didn’t have to choose. 

 For $14.25 per person, including sweet or unsweet tea, the all-you-can-eat Italian lunch buffet turns a single meal into an opportunity to explore. Offered Tuesday through Friday from 11am to 2:30pm, it lets you do exactly what a buffet encourages: look around, find whatever catches your attention, and start building your plate. 

 The choices stretch well beyond one kind of Italian comfort food. There’s a salad bar with fresh vegetables and toppings, trays of garlic bread and baked bites, several pizzas, spaghetti in red sauce, creamy pasta, fried chicken, roasted potatoes, and more waiting along the line. 

 My own plate ended up looking like a miniature tour of the buffet: a slice of sausage pizza, spaghetti, creamy rigatoni, and cheesy garlic bread, with iced tea alongside it. 

 That’s what I enjoyed most about eating here with my family. None of us had to agree on what sounded good, and I didn’t have to spend ten minutes debating whether I wanted pizza or pasta - exactly the kind of decision I’d rather not make when both are sitting a few feet away. 

 A buffet is often discussed in terms of how much you can eat, but I think the better question is how much you can experience. A small portion lets you try something you might never order as an entrée, while going back for another taste tells you something too: apparently, you found the thing you’d order next time.

 By the time we left, we hadn’t simply had lunch; we’d gotten a pretty good introduction to Mario’s kitchen, one small plate at a time. Sometimes making a meal of it means deciding you don’t have to choose at all. 

 A few miles away, making a meal of it has less to do with what happens once you sit down and more to do with everything that happens before you get there. There are few places on the island where I can lose track of an afternoon quite as easily as The Strand. 

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 I may head downtown knowing exactly where I’m going, only to notice something in a storefront, decide there’s time for one more shop, and eventually realize that whatever quick trip I had planned has quietly expanded into something else entirely. 

 By then, going home simply because I’m hungry seems like a terrible waste of perfectly good wandering. That’s where Yaga’s Cafe, at 2314 The Strand, fits rather nicely. 

 On Wednesdays, Yaga’s offers a $10 special that includes a sandwich, side, and beverage, making it easy to let an afternoon downtown wander its way into dinner. 

 I took a table outside with my family, ordered sandwiches and fries, and settled in along The Strand with glasses of iced tea. One went with the burger, while I chose the fried chicken sandwich, piled high with lettuce, tomato, cheese, and pickles. 

 The food was exactly what that kind of afternoon called for. The burger was straightforward and satisfying, my chicken sandwich arrived with a beautifully craggy fried crust, and both came with baskets of hot, seasoned fries. 

 Sitting outside, watching downtown carry on around us, reminded me how easy it is to forget to experience the place where we actually live. Every once in a while, it’s worth remembering that we get to be tourists here too. 

 We didn’t need to hurry through our meal or make it the grand event of the day. We could sit outside, finish our fries, watch the people - and the occasional overly interested pigeon - go by, and decide what we wanted to do next. 

 Dinner had simply become another part of our time spent downtown. Sometimes making a meal of it is simply deciding you’re not ready to go home yet. 

 At MAC-IES on Broadway, not being ready to go home comes with another possibility: take the meal with you. From 2 to 5pm daily, the $11 Brown Bag Special includes a single smashburger with cheese, dressings, up to four toppings, a small fry, a 20-ounce soda, and a scoop of ice cream. 

 It falls into that wonderfully flexible space between a late lunch and an early dinner, when hunger has arrived but there’s still enough daylight left to wonder what you might do with the rest of it. 

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 I stopped in with my husband and although we were technically ordering the same thing, the four toppings meant we could make the burgers completely our own. I kept mine simple with mustard and grilled onions, while he went with mushrooms, green chiles, grilled onions, and his choice of dressings. 

 The smashburgers had those deeply browned edges that come from pressing the beef against a hot griddle, and the fries arrived hot and generously seasoned. 

 We may have gone in different directions with the burgers, but when it came to dessert, there was no debate: we both chose a scoop of butter pecan ice cream. For $11, it felt like the kind of afternoon meal that had thought of everything. 

 That’s what I like about the Brown Bag Special. It gives you a complete meal without necessarily deciding where that meal has to happen. We ate ours at MAC-IES, but the name itself got me thinking about the possibilities. 

 On an island, a brown bag can go considerably farther than the kitchen table. The Gulf is only minutes away, and parks are scattered across Galveston. The next time, I might take that brown bag with me. 

 After spending so much time thinking about where a meal could take us, my husband and I decided to put the idea into practice. We stopped at Bleu Sucré French Bakery by the Sea, at 704 14th Street, picked up brunch, and headed toward the Gulf. 

 Recently opened in the former PattyCake’s Bakery space on the East End, Bleu Sucré serves French pastries, coffee, sandwiches, and baked goods that somehow make Galveston feel both smaller and larger at the same time. 

 Smaller because the island remains deeply local and neighborly, where a familiar bakery space can begin another chapter; larger because suddenly, in the middle of a Texas beach town, you can walk out carrying a baguette and feel, if only for a meal, somewhere impossibly European. 

 He chose the salmon avocado croissant, tucked inside a deeply laminated croissant with dark, crisp layers that shattered delicately with every bite. The richness of the salmon was balanced by fresh avocado, cucumber, and dill. 

 I chose the ham and cheese baguette, exactly the kind of sandwich I hope for when I hear the words French bakery. The bread had that beautiful chew and crackle that makes you pause after the first bite, not because you’re being polite, but because your brain needs a second to process how good it is. 

 With our sandwiches wrapped in red-and-white paper, we left the bakery behind and headed toward the Gulf. A few minutes later, we were sitting near the water with brunch spread out in front of us, and what could have been two sandwiches eaten at a table had become something else entirely. They became a picnic. 

 And perhaps that is the thing I love about eating outside. A picnic does not require wicker baskets, matching napkins, or an afternoon spent preparing tiny sandwiches. 

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 The bakery had made the food, but Galveston had given us the dining room. Sometimes you just have to take lunch to the table with the best view. 

 Of course, a meal does not have to begin at a restaurant before it can come along for the day. Sometimes the best thing to tuck into the cooler is something made in your own kitchen, especially when it is the kind of food that asks very little of you once you leave the house. 

 No reheating, no carefully timed arrival, just something good to eat whenever and wherever hunger finally catches up with you. 

 Which brings me back to that cooler from the beginning. For this month’s Food Souvenir, I wanted something that could do exactly that: leave the kitchen behind and become part of whatever came next. 

 My Pizza Pasta Salad with Roasted Vegetables and Homemade Italian Dressing takes some of the flavors I love about pizza and turns them into the sort of meal that is perfectly happy traveling with you. 

 Pack it for the beach. Bring it to a park. Take it along for an afternoon that has no real plan beyond seeing where it goes. Because sometimes making a meal of it starts before you ever leave home. 

 By the end of all this eating, I realized the phrase make a meal of it has very little to do with how elaborate the food is. It’s really an invitation to give the meal a little more room. 

 Room to try something you might not normally order, to stay downtown longer than you planned, to take dinner somewhere with a view, or to pack something from home and see where the afternoon takes you. 

 The island makes it easy to blur the line between the meal and everything happening around it. So perhaps the next time someone asks where you want to eat, the better question isn’t necessarily where - it’s what we want to make of it.